チリチリナイン
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Chiri Chiri Nine (CHILLY CHILI NINE), tucked away on the second floor of the Maruha Building in Shinjuku Golden Gai, is a rare bar with two completely different faces. The night bar opens at 7 p.m., staffed by different people depending on the day of the week, and the rotating daily otoshi — think yakisoba, bread with cream stew, or a small plate of fish — gives regulars something to look forward to every visit. But when dawn breaks, the bar transforms. The owner, known as "Tauchi-san," rides his motorbike all the way to Atami, catches fish from a boat, and serves them the same day in the form of "Tauchimeshi" — a fresh seafood breakfast that draws in bleary-eyed regulars like a magnet after a long night out. Slices of yellowtail sashimi with vivid red flesh and clean flavor are the hallmark of this morning ritual. The old sign reading "Tsunekichi" still hangs outside — a vestige of the bar that once occupied this space — which might confuse first-timers, but that's all part of the Golden Gai charm. Whether you're looking for a casual solo drink late at night or a seafood breakfast to cap off an all-nighter, this place has you covered. If you're planning a long night in Golden Gai, put this one on your map.
* Bars located in the same alley row.
Shinjuku Golden Gai is Tokyo's most iconic bar district — 295+ unique bars packed into six narrow alleys in Kabukicho, Shinjuku. A 5-minute walk from Shinjuku Station East Exit, next to Hanazono Shrine. Featured in the Michelin Green Guide, it has been a cultural institution since the 1950s.
Read the history of Golden Gai