Kaori

Tucked into Hanazono 5th Street in Shinjuku's Golden-Gai, "Kaori no Yume wa Yoru Hiraku" takes its name directly from Fuji Keiko's signature song — a reflection of owner Yanagi Kaori's lifelong devotion to the Showa-era diva. Duck under the blue-lit sign, push open the red door, climb the narrow staircase, and you'll find a tiny bar where old vinyl spins and the husky strains of jazz-kayokyoku fill the smoky air. Mama Kaori runs the place solo, dressed every single day in antique kimono from the Taisho and early Showa eras — she owns no Western clothes whatsoever. A certified Whisky Professional and sake Kikisake-shi, she's as serious about what's in your glass as she is about what's on the turntable. Every new arrival is welcomed with a full-house toast and the signature shout of "Kakiin!" — the bar's unofficial rallying cry. She also fronts the jazz-kayokyoku band "Yanagi Kaori to Sakenomi Yaroudom," having released a full album, so this is very much a bar built around music. If you love Showa kayokyoku, good whisky, or just want to drink quietly with a mama who truly means it, this is your place.