Big River

Big River sits on the second floor of Akarui Hanazono 5-chome in Shinjuku Golden Gai, reached by a steep, narrow staircase. The name tells its own story: the owner's surname, Okawa, simply means "big river" in English—a pun that also doubles as a play on "bar." Inside, a compact counter-only space retains the warm, worn-wood feel of Showa-era Golden Gai. Behind that counter is Keiko Okawa, former editor-in-chief of the iconic gal magazine Ochappii, who stumbled into bar ownership after telling a friend she was fed up with the internet age—and finding a vacant spot the very next day. The conversation roams freely from films and music to decidedly bawdy territory, with no single niche dominating the room. Her homemade curry is a quiet legend, perfect for rounding off the night. Solo women are explicitly welcomed, making this one of the more approachable first stops for Golden Gai newcomers.