BAR Toki

BAR Toki sits on Hanazono 5th Street in Shinjuku Golden Gai, a tiny counter bar with just 8 seats where the lights reliably come on at 8 p.m. The shop's own motto says it all: "everyone's hometown." Master Deshico writes each guest's name on a whiteboard as soon as they walk in, and calls them by name from that moment on — a small ritual that melts the room open within minutes. Before long, you're deep in conversation with a stranger you just met. Every night, Deshico and Naomi-nee (Naominé) run the place together, and music requests are welcome. Cover charge is ¥1,000; hours are 8 p.m.–2 a.m. (L.O. 1:30 a.m.), closed Sundays. If you're nervous about your first Golden Gai visit alone, this is the one to start with.